How Do You Walk a Camino by Accident?

Via Augusta Pilgrimage

 “Sometimes the best journeys are those, that start when we do not plan, 
continue how we do not expect and are taking us places we do not know.”

Aisha Mirza

Accidental Pilgrims on the Way of St. James

When we left Canada, our intention was to walk along the northern coast of Spain, following the Camino del Norte pilgrimage route from Irun to Santiago de Compostela, and then continue on to Muxia on the Camino Fisterra.  However, as we hoist our backpacks and lace up our hiking boots for the first stage of our next Camino, we find ourselves not on the northern coast of Spain, but rather on its southern shore.  Without a prior plan or preparation, we will spend the next ten days walking north on the 190 km long Via Augusta, a route that traces an old Roman road linking Cadiz and Seville, where the Via de la Plata begins en route to the Camino Sanabrés and the cathedral in Santiago. 

So how did we end up in Cadiz, one of the oldest cities in Europe, and how are we walking the Via Augusta 'by accident'?

Slow Travel to Camino

As anyone who follows our adventures knows, we are strong advocates of slow travel.  As a result, we prefer to make the transatlantic voyage between Canada and Europe by ship rather than by plane.  Apart from several transatlantic crossings on the world's last ocean liner, the Queen Mary 2, and one trip up the inside passage to Alaska on Cunard's Queen Elizabeth, we are not 'cruisers.'  In fact, many of the amenities and experiences offered by larger cruise lines hold little interest for us, such as onboard casinos, Broadway-style shows, multiple dining venues, go-kart tracks or climbing walls. 

However, we absolutely love the slow pace of travelling by ship, the salty ocean air, the possibility of spotting whales and seabirds, and the feeling of standing out on deck in the middle of nowhere, hundreds of miles from the nearest land. 

To our delight, this year we had an opportunity to make the transatlantic crossing aboard a sailing ship.  However, unlike an ocean liner, this much smaller vessel cannot transport passengers comfortably and safely through the legendary storms of the North Atlantic.  As a result, when our vessel encountered gale-force winds and heavy swells on its first day at sea, the captain of Windstar Cruises' ship Wind Surf plotted a course much farther south than anticipated to avoid the worst of the storm. 

As a consequence, after nine glorious days at sea, we made a stop in the Canary Islands to refuel instead of Ponte Delgada, and ultimately, we made landfall in Europe in Cadiz, Spain, instead of Lisbon, Portugal, as planned.  Taking this as a sign of what was meant to be, we decided to 'go with the flow,' and simply walk north to Santiago de Compostela from Cadiz.  Hence, you could say that we are walking the Via Augusta purely 'by accident.'

Landfall in Cadiz and the Beginning of a New Adventure

As a result, yesterday morning we found ourselves stepping off the Wind Surf sailing ship and onto dry land for the first time in two weeks.  We had been up before dawn to witness our arrival in Cadiz, braving the darkness and bitterly cold wind on the top deck of the ship. 

A group of miserable-looking Rock Doves huddled in the shelter of the lifeboats beside us, and an escort of gulls played in the icy wind around the masts above our heads.  As the ship threaded its way through the lanes of brightly lit cargo ships, fast-moving passenger ferries, and tiny fishing vessels, the lights on shore grew brighter, and the golden dome of the Cathedral of Cadiz took shape, dominating the city's skyline. 

A few hours later, with tears in our eyes, we were bidding farewell to our fellow passengers and crew, a group of people who had been strangers just two weeks ago, but who felt like family.  Just like that, we crossed the gangplank and took the first steps of our next Camino. 

Historic Cadiz Spain

Before us lay Cadiz, which is described as being one of the oldest cities in Western Europe.  Since we hadn't planned on visiting it, we know very little about it, but we understand the highlights to include the Cathedral of Cadiz, Torre Tavira, and several locations where it was possible to view Roman ruins.  The city was founded by Phoenicians from Tyre around 1,100 BCE.  They established a port in the 7th century BCE to facilitate the trade of metals such as gold, tin, and especially silver.  In the 6th century BCE, the Phoenicians were succeeded by the Carthaginians. Later, the city fell to the Romans under Scipio Africanus in 206 BCE.   Situated at the estuary of the Guadalete River, it became a thriving Roman port and naval base.  The people of Gades had an alliance with Rome, and in 49 BCE, Julius Caesar bestowed Roman citizenship on all its inhabitants.

When the Visigoths conquered the Romans on the Iberian Peninsula around 400 CE, much of the original city was destroyed.  Later, between 711 and 1262 CE, Cadiz fell under Moorish rule.  Then, during the Age of Exploration, the city again experienced a resurgence.  Christopher Columbus sailed from Cadiz on his second and fourth voyages, and the port later became home to the Spanish treasure fleet.  Predictably, this made the city a target for Spain's enemies, and it was repeatedly attacked throughout the 16th and 17th centuries. Francis Drake was one notable attacker, and he was followed by many other Englishmen.   This history is very similar to the port cities that we trekked through on the Rota Vicentina in Portugal.  Originally known as Gadir, or Agadir, Cadiz has been an important trading hub from the time of its founding, and it is clearly rich in history.  

Exploring Cadiz

Trying not to feel overwhelmed by the busyness and noise of the city, and trying to keep our sadness at leaving the Wind Surf behind at bay, we made our way up the narrow, twisting stone streets, which were bordered by colourful stucco and stone buildings.  We did not have a map or cell service, but we knew that if we made our way up to the imposing main cathedral, we could find Casa Nautilus, our accommodations for the next two nights. 

We made it without too much difficulty, and the staff kindly let us drop off our luggage in the lobby, even though it was still too early to check in. Still feeling a little off kilter on dry land, we decided to explore.

Our first stop was the Cathedral of Cadiz.  The main square in front was filled with red wooden dividers that created stands for spectators, and the surrounding streets and areas were lined on both sides with numbered wooden chairs.  All the balconies on the buildings surrounding the square were draped in red banners in celebration of Semana Santa, or Holy Week. 

    

Apparently, the Easter festivities are particularly lavish and joyous in Andalucía, with Cadiz, Seville, and Frontera de la Jerez having the most extravagant celebrations.  During our pilgrimage on the Camino de Madrid, we had learned that walking a pilgrimage route during Semana Santa can be challenging, because many shops and accommodations are closed, and restaurants tend to offer set meals which are fancy, expensive, and not vegetarian. However, we were clearly in for a spectacle, so we tried to focus on the excitement rather than the potential challenges we would face in the coming days and weeks.

Cadiz Cathedral

We stepped inside the Cathedral, whose full English name is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross over the Waters, and which is the seat of the Diocese of Cadiz and Ceuta, underlining our close proximity to the continent of Africa. It was built between 1722 and 1838, and it is known as the 'Church of the Americas' because it was built with money based on trade with the Americas. 

Construction of the Cathedral was undertaken over a period of 116 years.  As a result, the building features a variety of different architectural styles, including a Baroque edifice, rococo elements, and additions done in the neoclassical style.  While this information was provided by the guidebook, I am sad to say that I would be hard-pressed to identify any of the different styles myself.

As we wandered around, we noticed that the chapels contained paintings and relics from all across Spain.  We also saw that the building is in urgent need of repair.  It had beautiful domed ceilings, but they were covered in mesh nets to prevent small pieces of plaster and rock from falling on the worshipers and tourists below.

This stood in stark contrast to the lavish silver Easter floats that stood beside the altar, waiting to be carried through the streets for the Semana Santa processions.  In the crypt, which was a surprisingly large space with a domed ceiling, the composer Manuel de Falla and the poet and playwright José Maria Penmán, both of whom were born in Cadiz, are buried.  The cathedral was a beautiful space, filled with light and a very peaceful atmosphere, but it was rapidly filling up with other tourists and travellers.

Semana Santa

Before we left the cathedral, we received a stamp for our pilgrim passports.  This was an unexpected gift, as we had assumed that we would need to go across the square to the Church of Santiago, which was currently closed. 

We still intended to visit it, but when we stepped back into the square, we were a little shocked to discover that it was completely full of people.  Two cruise ships had docked in port since we arrived, and likely somewhere around 8,000 people were now exploring the old town of Cadiz.  After spending 14 days on a ship with 159 passengers and 217 crew, the crowds felt quite overwhelming.

Finding the Via Augusta

As we skirted around the edge of the plaza, we were delighted and slightly surprised to notice the first Camino marker on the wall of the Church of Santiago.  It wasn't just a yellow arrow, although we quickly spotted a few of those as well, but it was a blue and yellow tile which said Via Augusta, km 0. 

We hadn't been certain whether the Via Augusta was recognized as part of the Camino de Santiago or not, as most of our readings had emphasized its importance as a Roman road rather than a traditional pilgrimage route.  However, spotting the familiar Camino marking felt like such an encouraging and heart-warming sign on a day filled with exhaustion from a late night and an early start, sadness at concluding an outstanding sea voyage, and a hard transition from the simplicity of sea life to the noise and crowds of a city.

We followed the Camino arrows down the winding streets for a bit, and then, mostly to escape the crowds, we made our way out to the paved pedestrian walkway that follows the shoreline around the sandy peninsula on which Cadiz sits, paralleling the Avenue Campo del Sur. 

As we followed the shoreline, we enjoyed a cool breeze coming in across the clear blue sea on one side, and stopped frequently to admire the astonishing variety of trees and flowers that were blooming in the beautifully landscaped parks and gardens on the inland side of the walkway. 

This pedestrian path also gave us lovely views of the city of Cadiz, which, from a slight distance, looked a little like it was made of stacked squares of the white, pink and sand coloured blocks.

Castillo de San Sabastian

Eventually, we came to the spit on which the Castillo de San Sebastian sits.  The stone fortress, with its impenetrably thick, angled walls, turrets, and crenellations, looked very imposing sitting on its little island out at sea.  It was constructed in 1706 to defend the northern flank of the city of Cadiz from attack. 

A lighthouse and watchtower are also located on the island, which were used during the period of Muslim occupation.  The castle was declared a cultural landmark in 1985, and it is open for visits, but we could see long lines of tourists on the walkway leading out to the island. 

Not wanting to join the masses of other visitors, we contented ourselves with walking the golden brown sands of the Playa Caleta, where we found beautiful seashells, some of which had hermit crabs living in them!  Their red eye stalks, striking black and white eyes, and equally sized claws identified them as Saint Piran's Hermit Crabs.  To make things even more interesting, we also spotted a plethora of Ruddy Turnstones foraging among the rocks and seaweed.

Beaches and Gardens

By the time we had passed the fort, our energy was really starting to fade.  We had spent several nearly sleepless nights aboard the Wind Surf, simply trying to make the most of our time on board. As exhaustion set in, we made our way back toward the hostel, hoping we could check in and take a small break.  As we began our return, we walked along a beautiful tidal beach where colourful fishing boats were tied along the sandy shoreline.

Leaving the coast behind, we next passed through a peaceful city park complete with tiled benches, stunning statues and beautiful shade trees.

Easter Procession in Cadiz

Approaching Cadiz's historic central Cathedral, we encountered yet another Easter procession.

We stopped to watch as an elaborate float was carried into the Cathedral to much drumming, trumpet playing, and fanfare.  The elaborate float was so heavy that the men underneath struggled to hoist it up the steep ramp and into the Cathedral. 

At one point, it began to drag them backwards down the slope, so when they finally managed to get it inside, a cheer erupted from the spectators.  We'd read that the celebrations in southern Spain are more joyous than those in the north, which take on a more sombre tone, and from this first procession I would tend to agree.  It was lovely to see so many families with 3-4 generations represented, all gathered together in the square for the spectacle.  This world needs more celebrations that bring people together.

Confraternities

One of the most striking traditions of Semana Santa in Spain is the presence of parish brotherhoods, or cofradías, who are central to the Holy Week processions. Members of these confraternities, known as nazarenos, dress in long robes and pointed hoods that at first glance may appear unsettling to outsiders. Though the garb is often compared to the white hoods of the Ku Klux Klan, there is no connection between the two. In fact, the robes and tall conical hoods date back centuries within Spanish Catholic tradition, symbolizing repentance and anonymity. Statues and depictions of these hooded figures can even be found along the Camino Francés, such as in Sahagún.

Each parish has its own variation of robes and colours, and while the symbolism can be complex, the overarching purpose remains rooted in penitence. Members of the brotherhoods escort elaborately decorated floats, called pasos, which bear statues depicting stages of the Passion, moments in the life of Christ, or scenes honouring the Virgin Mary. Slowly and solemnly, they carry or accompany these heavy floats through town, often to the rhythm of drums or brass bands. For many, this act of walking alongside or beneath the weight of a float is a deeply personal form of penance and a way to atone for sins while remaining anonymous behind the hood. Historically, anonymity was essential, since confraternities were a means to enact penitence, which was viewed as a private spiritual undertaking rather than a public performance.

Watching a procession, one cannot help but notice the small details that bring the ritual to life. The air is heavy with incense, the streets echo with measured footsteps and solemn music, and melted wax from thousands of devotional candles coats the cobblestones until the ground itself becomes slick, requiring careful steps on the slippery streets. 

Evening of Rest and Resupply

It was quite a spectacle, but afterward, we made our way back to our hostel, checked in, and spent the afternoon resting. We re-emerged a few hours later, eventually finding a shop where we could buy a SIM card for the phone (both Orange and Vodafone claimed this wasn't possible until Monday, even though their shops were still open). 

       

We also found a supermarket and bought some salads for dinner and some bread and jam for breakfast tomorrow.  It felt like a long day, and it marked the transition from our sea voyage to a Camino, which we found oddly difficult to make.  

By the end of the night, the solemn processions of Semana Santa gave way to our own exhaustion, and we were ready for a good night's sleep. Tomorrow we will explore more of Cadiz and make our final preparations for setting out on the Via Augusta en route to Seville and in approximately 45-50 days, Santiago de Compostela.

See you on the Way!