Exploring and Birdwatching Cadiz

“When you look at a city, it’s like reading the hopes, 

aspirations, and pride of everyone who built it.”

Hugh Newell Jacobsen

Exploring Cadiz

Still unused to the sounds of a city after two weeks at sea, we woke early.  Even though it was just after dawn, the hot sun was already making itself felt.  With no particular destination in mind, we set off through the cobblestone streets of Cadiz to explore.  We began by wandering through the central square outside the Cathedral.   Already it was beginning to fill with early risers - locals heading to work, walking their dogs, or returning home with a baguette under their arms.  Tourists were also beginning to trickle in, looking for breakfast at one of the cafes or restaurants that lined the square.

We followed the maze of winding streets, our wanderings soon bringing us to the Teatro Romano, a well-known historic site whose entrance was so tucked away we nearly missed it.  The Roman Theatre of Cadiz was built in the 1st century BC, and since its discovery in the 1980s, a considerable portion of the seating and orchestra pit have been excavated.  Unfortunately, the Balbo Theatre Interpretation Center was not yet open when we passed by, but apparently, it is a stop worth making to learn more about this important historical monument and its ongoing excavation. 

       

The crowds of school children, tour bus groups, and random people lining up outside the entrance suggested that when the doors opened, the crowds inside would overwhelm us, so we continued on.

Cadiz City Walls

Unsurprisingly, given that Cadiz is essentially a long sandbar, we were soon heading back towards the ocean.  On the way, we passed a fragment of the old stone walls that once circled the city.  The walls of Cádiz date back to the Phoenician era, but they have been expanded and reinforced over the centuries, particularly during the Roman, Moorish, and Spanish colonial periods. Today, remnants of these ancient walls can still be seen around the old town, with notable sections like the Puerta de Tierra, which was once the main entrance to the city. The walls not only served as protection from invaders but also as symbols of Cádiz's importance as a strategic port city.

While we were fascinated by the walls themselves, we were also distracted by the vibrant community of birds that inhabited the landscaped gardens at their base.  Several Eurasian Blackbirds were foraging on a bit of open lawn among the ornamental shrubs and bushes.  To our delight, we spotted the muted green and yellow plumage of a pair of Iberian Chiffchaffs moving among the flowered shrubs, collecting insects for their nearby nestlings. 

They were joined by highly energetic Western Bonelli's Warblers, which reminded us strongly of the Golden-crowned Kinglets that live in Canada. High above us, raucous flocks of noisy Monk Parakeets moved among the palm trees, joyously feeding nestlings of their own. 

We paused for quite some time, watching the fascinating avian activity around us.  As we leaned against the railings, the sidewalk grew increasingly busy around us.  Locals and tourists were out and about, and we increasingly felt like we were either getting caught up in or getting in the way of city life.

 Perhaps it was two weeks at sea, or perhaps we are just ill-suited to crowds, but we began to feel overwhelmed by the noise and bustle of Cadiz's old town.  As a result, we sought refuge by heading towards the nearest public garden - the Parque Celestino Mutis.

Parque Celestino Mutis

Parque Celestino Mutis is located on a tiny triangle of land that sticks out into the Bay of Cadiz at the foot of the Puente de la Constitucion de 1812.  

As it turned out, this tranquil green oasis offered a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Named after the 18th-century Spanish botanist Celestino Mutis, the park is a tribute to his contributions to the study of flora, and it features a staggering variety of different trees, plants, and shrubs. 

With its lush landscapes, winding paths, and diverse plant species, the park provides a peaceful setting for both locals and tourists to relax, take a stroll, or enjoy a moment of solitude. As we wandered among the well-maintained gardens, fountains, and shaded areas, we enjoyed the brightly blooming plants and trees, and of course, the local birdlife.

In fact, during our ramblings, we managed to spot a new (to us) bird species - the Western Subalpine Warbler.  Found primarily in the Mediterranean regions of Europe, North Africa, and parts of the Near East, this small passerine thrives in scrubby and bushy habitats.  The males are dusty grey on top, rufous below, and sport a brilliant red eye ring.  We were fortunate enough to spot several males busily foraging among the flowering trees, and they really made our morning! In addition, we also spotted several more Western Bonelli's Warblers, a Sedge Warbler, and several House Sparrows.

Dry Dock

As we made our way along the coastline, we paused to watch the work being done on the enormous-looking Carnival Miracle cruise ship that was in dry dock across the harbour.  It was apparently undergoing an extensive refurbishment aimed at updating its interior design and onboard amenities, which included the introduction of new dining venues, upgraded staterooms, more energy-efficient and environmentally friendly technologies, and a fresh new look.  The ship was surrounded by cranes, shipping crates, and construction materials, and quite a few workers were hanging out deck, but they seemed to mostly be on break.

In the absence of activity aboard Carnival Miracle, our attention wandered to the harbour, where a graceful black and white Sandwich Tern was making repeated sweeps low over the calm water in search of fish.  Its graceful movements were mesmerizing to watch, and Sean paused to take a few photos.  

We also spotted a Great Cormorant perched calmly on the rock shore, its black plumage glistening in the bright sunshine, and its yellow bill positively shining.  It seemed to be observing its domain with great concentration.

As we continued around the harbour, we passed the main gates to the Puerto de Cadiz, and then caught a glimpse of the Wind Surf, still docked in the harbour.  Her five white masts towered above us, appearing to be even taller than the nearby buildings.  

Seeing her docked provided a new and strange perspective, making her appear much taller and larger than she had felt surrounded by the wide expanse of the open sea.  We felt a pang of sadness at having to leave her behind, knowing she would continue on her journey without us.  It had been a truly amazing transatlantic crossing, and we weren't yet ready to take on the challenges of being back on land.

Cadiz Public Market

Nevertheless, we eventually turned back inland, heading towards the Cathedral of Cadiz and the center of town.  

Along the way, we passed the impressive-looking Cadiz Public Market.  It was a vibrant and bustling hub, where the sights, sounds, and aromas of local life came together in a dense crowd of locals. 

Established in the early 19th century, the market is housed in a striking building with beautiful architectural details, including a grand entrance and ornate ironwork. It offers an array of fresh produce, seafood, meats, cheeses, and local specialties, making it a favourite of food lovers and anyone seeking an authentic taste of Cádiz. The market is particularly famous for its incredible selection of fresh fish and shellfish, which are caught daily from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. Beyond food, visitors can find artisanal goods, spices, and traditional Andalusian products. As we passed through, the atmosphere was lively and friendly.

“Cities were always like people, showing their varying personalities to the traveller.”

Roman Payne

Dinner in Cadiz

By this point, it was late afternoon, and we were ready for a break after a day of wandering.  We made our way back to the main square and were happy to find a small bar/restaurant that was open and serving food.  We relaxed with a cold beers and a meal of tapas, which involved roasted veggies and tortilla. 

It felt good to rest in the shade outside, watching the well-dressed multi-generational crowds slowly gathering and filling the square.  The atmosphere of celebration was elevated as food and candy vendors began showing up in the square, tempting children with paper twists of hard candy and other small delicacies.

After our meal, we wandered the streets again, heading slowly back towards our hostel.  The telltale sound of beating drums and a brass band announced the commencement of an Easter procession, and soon we caught our first glimpse of the floats being carried through the crowded streets.  

We joined the throngs of excited spectators, quietly observing the first of what we assumed would be many Easter celebrations in the coming weeks.  It felt like a grand beginning to a new Camino.  

The evening before the Via Augusta

By the end of the night, the solemn processions of Semana Santa gave way to our own familiar pre-hike restlessness. Excitement was building, but so too were the questions that always surface before setting out on a new trail. What would the Via Augusta be like? How would the conditions underfoot feel, and what landscapes would we pass through? Which birds and animals might we encounter for the first time? And, as always, we wondered what unexpected challenges or surprises lay ahead, and whether our bodies were ready for what was to come.

In the morning, we will take our first steps north on the Via Augusta, beginning a journey of more than 1,300 km to Santiagode Compostela.  

See you on the Way!