Navigating the Modern World on Camino: Utrera to Alcala de Guadaira

 “Traveller, there is no path. The path is made by walking.”
Antonio Machado, Proverbios y Cantares

Via Augusta Stage 8

Today, we set out with a new challenge - not knowing where our destination would be. Most online resources and travel blogs suggested the end of this stage should be the town of Dos Hermanas, and our downloaded GPX tracks pointed in that direction. Yet, the Via Augusta organization website and its description led instead toward Alcalá de Guadaíra, a completely different route.

With no way of knowing which would be correct, we decided to place our trust in the yellow arrows on the streets and simply follow where they might take us. The difficulty of the Via Augusta lies in this constant choice: do we believe the GPX or the arrows, and if the arrows, which set of arrows? They often diverge, leaving uncertainty at the heart of each day’s walk. So we began without reservations and without planned accommodations, letting the Camino decide where we would spend the night somewhere between 16 and 20 kilometres ahead.

Easter Monday on Camino 

We slept in a little and then headed into town to see if anything was open.  To our surprise, even though it was Easter Monday, the central square was alive with activity.  Workers were dismantling the stands for the Easter processions, and around the edges, there were several bars and cafés open, their chairs and tables already arranged on the sidewalk.  We stepped inside one and ordered café con leche and tostada.  The place was very busy with locals, and as we waited for our breakfast and then ate it, we were stunned by the ear-splitting level of noise reverberating in the tiny space.  The espresso machines, music, and people shouting to be heard above the background noise and each other all competed to create a truly astonishing din.  Regardless, we were just glad to have found breakfast.

We headed out from our hotel around 9:30 AM, which is a very late start for us and for pilgrims on the Camino.  However, with such a short stage ahead of us, we saw no reason to rush.  It wouldn't be long before the temperature rose to nearly uncomfortable levels, making us realize that when we start the Via de la Plata, it will be important to set out much earlier, but we didn't reach that conclusion until later in the day.   As it was, we made our way to the central square and did our best to follow the trail markings out of town.  Utrera has very tasteful, elegant and understated metal Camino markers, but unfortunately, they are also very small, and we have never been too good at following arrows through cities during rush hour. 

Departing Utrera

It was a somewhat uninspiring walk out of town following busy streets with box stores, car dealerships and the like.  We may have been following the Roman road, but the downside was that it is still being used as a major transportation corridor.  This makes it somewhat less romantic in certain stretches than the idealized image we may have in our minds.

Nonetheless, with the help of the GPX tracks from the Via Augusta Association, we made it to the edge of town, passing through a commercial district.  Here we found the more obvious and easy-to-follow blue and yellow markers.  From that point, the route continued on a straight run down a single road all the way to Alcalá de Guardaira. 

Buen Camino

As we reached the edge of town, we were passed by a large group of people riding bicycles, and we soon learned that we were following a GR route that was very popular with cyclists.  Just as the large and noisy group was pedalling past us, a motorcyclist wove through the chaos and gave us an enthusiastic 'Buen Camino!' These small gestures and moments of recognition always boost our spirits and really make our morning. While we enjoy walking in solitude, on a route like this, where we have only seen two other pilgrims in eight days, it is nice to have some company once in a while.

As we left the traffic and bustle of the town behind, we found ourselves walking past a row of bakeries.  From the outside, they looked like industrial buildings, but the delicious and mouth-watering smell of baking bread emanating from within was enough to drive us crazy.  We passed one outlet with a baker who gave us a happy wave from inside, and as we made our way along, we tried to enjoy the smell as long as possible. It was impossible not to be hungry!

Orchards and Olive Groves

Soon we found ourselves following a narrow laneway that wove between garden plots and large olive groves.  The road was surprisingly busy for a laneway that seemingly led out into the uninhabited and empty countryside.  However, many of the fields, orchards, and olive groves had teams of people working in them. 

Curiously, in many cases, we couldn't actually tell what they were up to as they didn't seem to be planting, weeding, or harvesting.  A notable exception was one field where the crew was out harvesting onions.  The smell was almost overpowering, and as a tractor carrying half a dozen workers drove past, they waved and called out to us, asking us in Spanish to remember them to the Saint.  When (or if) we arrive in Santiago de Compostela, we will be sure to keep them in our thoughts. 

Slow Travel and Nature

This stretch made us really think about what we want in a trail.  As we near the end of the Via Augusta, we are beginning to reflect on it - what we enjoyed, what we found challenging, what advice we'd have for someone setting out on it for the first time.

Today's stage is essentially a straight, flat run down a single road that links Utrera with Alcala de Guardaira.  In some ways, this might seem extremely boring.  However, as we made our way along, enjoying the sunshine, fresh air, bird song, and constantly changing scenery, we realized that even the apparently mundane can be filled with beauty, if only we remember to look for it. This would be my advice for anyone out walking or hiking - always make time to stop and enjoy the little things.

Around half of today's stage passed among the gardens and farms of rural Spain.  We noticed that the soil in the olive groves had changed to a bright terracotta red colour, which reminds us a lot of the sandy beaches and red soil cliffs along the Confederation Trail in Prince Edward Island, Canada.

Together with the palm trees that are blooming yellow, the oleander and bougainvillea, which are covered in huge pink blossoms, the multitude of wildflowers that line the road, and the small flocks of chickens ranging freely among the trees, it made for a very colourful, rich, and diverse landscape.

Meadows, Wildflowers, and Birds

Eventually, the farms gave way, and the second part of the walk to Alcala de Guardaira was through rolling meadows of grass and wildflowers and light green wheat fields.  Mounds of yellow and white daisies lined the track, and a blanket of blood red poppies was sprinkled across the fields.  A large variety of tall thistles was also a constant companion, with their purple blossoms and complex star-shaped geometry.  

We took our time enjoying the flowers and taking a look at some of the yellow, white, and orange/brown/golden butterflies that were flitting down the path.  Colourful beetles were scurrying across the track, and many hoverflies seemed to be moving among the flower blossoms. 

We were particularly impressed by an iridescent green beetle that was polished and shining like a jewel in the bright sunshine.  We were also delighted to spot another new bird species - a small black and white bird with a rusty red hood and a crossed bill, which turned out to be a Woodchat Shrike! 

Heat Wave in Andalucía 

As the afternoon wore on, the sun began to beat down, making us wish for shade, a cool breeze, or a nice cold drink. To add to the challenge, we found ourselves climbing a rather steep hill on the far side of the open fields.  A couple of dirt bikes had zoomed past in a cloud of dust and gas fumes, but otherwise we were alone, plodding through the rapidly intensifying afternoon heat. 

The hill was covered in a grove of olive trees, but sadly, they were spaced much too far apart to provide any shade on the bright gravel of the track.  However, halfway up the hill, we came across a fountain with icy cold running water.  There was no indication as to whether it was notable or not, but Sean filled his hat and splashed his face and hands, luxuriating in the refreshing and rejuvenating flow.  I was close behind him.

When we eventually reached the top of the hill, we found a landscape defined by grassy slopes, steep red earth cliffs, and towering agave plants, their dried flower stalks so tall they looked like small trees.  To our delight, the fields were absolutely hopping with European Bee-eaters, who filled the skies with their brightly coloured feathers and their cheerful voices. 

Also, there was a faint breeze blowing at the top, which gave us a boost during the final few kilometres of our walk.  As we paused to enjoy the breath of cooler air, we spotted a European Pied Flycatcher moving about in the agave stalks and heard the cheerful calls of Crested and Thekla's Larks from the grassy fields around us.

Alcala de Guardaira

Instead of finishing the official stage by crossing the Rio Guardaira into the town, we decided to stop short in a quiet hotel located in the Parque Oromana.  By the time we reached the very posh-looking suburbs and passed by a swimming pool, tennis court, and neighbourhoods of modern homes tucked under huge pine trees, the afternoon was extremely hot.  Despite only being a 20 km stage, it had taken us most of the day – a reflection of the rising temperatures and exposed nature of the trail.

We climbed a small hill covered in tall pines on a gently switchbacked paved drive.  The soft coos of Wood Pigeons sounded in the branches above us, and we spotted the blue, brown, and black plumage of the large and long-tailed Iberian Magpies moving lazily among the trunks.

The accommodations, Legado Oromana Hotel, looked like a mansion that had once been very grand, but seemed as though it was a little past its heyday.  However, the staff was incredibly kind, and our room was nice and clean.  The lobby led into a large sitting room with a fireplace, comfortable chairs, and a wall of glass French doors that led out onto a patio overlooking the forested river valley, the city beyond.  It was such a peaceful place, and the view was spectacular.  Making it even better was the presence of a ginger cat sleeping in one of the armchairs.

Little did we know that over the course of the next 40 days of hiking across Spain that this hotel would be our favourite experience on the Camino!

Exploring, Searching and Relaxing

We did our chores and then headed back out in search of food.  The afternoon was so hot by this point that we dragged ourselves from one patch of shade to the next.  We climbed the steep main streets of the village, finding nothing open even though siesta should have been finished by this point.  We almost gave up and returned to the hotel empty-handed, but finally Sean found an open grocery store and we were able to purchase cold drinks, bread, cheese, tomatoes, and guacamole for dinner.  Thankfully, the return walk, which was downhill, was much easier.

We sat in the shade on the patio for a while, working on photo editing, writing journals, and enjoying a glass of wine.  Eventually, we moved over and sat on a bench overlooking the river valley while eating our dinner.  A walking path snaked along the banks of the river below us, and we could see the occasional jogger or family making their way along it through the trees. 

We also watched as a Kingfisher dove into the water near the weir beside one of the old abandoned mills in search of supper.  It was such a peaceful spot that we were tempted to take a rest day here.

Mirador at Sunset 

As the light faded and the sun began to set, we headed inside.  As we passed through the lobby, the concierge stopped me and asked if we would like to visit the mirador, which was a lookout at the top of the tower.  He handed me a key, and Sean and I climbed the extremely steep and narrow wooden steps up into the tower. 

We had to push open a hatch above our heads at the top of the steps, but when we stepped out into the tower, we were rewarded with a spectacular view.  The sun was just setting, turning the sky a brilliant pinkish orange colour. 

Across the river, the lights were just beginning to blink on in the gathering darkness.  Laughter and voices of other guests floated up to us in the quiet night air, and the fluttery shape of a bat zipped by below.  The afternoon heat had been replaced by soft, warm, humid night air.

When we returned to ground level and thanked the concierge profusely, he said that if we enjoyed that experience, we should head to the nearby park to the Mirador de Santiago around 7:00 AM tomorrow morning to watch the sunrise over the city.    We go to bed feeling grateful for another beautiful day on the Camino, and for all the gifts we have received, and having every intention of getting up early to watch the sunrise tomorrow.  

With Seville now in our sights and only a short stage away, we now have to focus not only on the end of our time on the Via Augusta but also on the beginning stages of the Via de la Plata. 

See you on the Way!