Good Friday and Good Birding: El Cuervo de Sevilla to Lebrija

 "Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience."
Ralph Waldo Emerson

Via Augusta Stage 5

One of the realities of walking a Camino like the Via Augusta is that where you stop each day isn’t always a matter of choice.  In many ways, our stages are determined by a number of factors, including distance, the availability of accommodations, and the price of those accommodations, each of which dictates the length of each day’s hike. Today on the Via Augusta, we faced a simple choice: either a short, affordable 10 km day, or a long 28 km stage that was well beyond our budget. In the end, we embraced the shorter walk, grateful for the opportunity to rest our bodies four days into this 1200 km journey from Cádiz to Santiago de Compostela along the Via Augusta, the Via de la Plata, and the Camino Sanabrés.

Morning Bird Watching 

We woke up around 6:30 AM to the sounds of House Sparrows outside our windows.  They were nesting in an improbably tiny crack in the wall opposite our window, and they were up before the sun. When it got light out, we went for a small adventure off the Camino, opting to walk through town out to the Mirador de la Mina.  Why did we do this?  Sean had read this was an excellent spot for birding, and it turned out he was absolutely right! 

Our expedition involved walking down a farm track for 20 minutes beyond the edge of town to a lookout over a restored wetland and pond.  There were around six camper vans parked in the parking lot, with some of the families already out having breakfast at small folding tables outside their vehicles. 

I'm sure we must have been a strange sight, but some of them gave us sleepy smiles and waves as we passed.  We continued down into the fields around the pond, suddenly finding ourselves in a world that felt like it was teeming with life.

Mirador de la Mina

Above us, the sky was painted with soft pinks and yellows, as though with watercolours.  At our feet, the dew hung heavy in the grass, sparkling as a thousand drops of water reflected the early morning sunlight.  We made our way along the gravel path, careful not to step on the thousands of snails and huge brown slugs that lay underfoot.  A constant stream of birds flew past overhead, and the small shrubs, trees, tall grasses, and fences were alive with songs that filled the air with a loud and joyful din of overlapping songs and calls.  There was so much lively activity going on around us that it was difficult to focus.

As we made our way across the open grassy fields, we saw a House Sparrow dive into a shrub, its beak filled with a giant wad of grass it was adding to its nest in a nearby fence post.  Corn Buntings were singing from atop the wire fence, and Crested Larks were foraging in the tall grass.  We caught a flash of bright yellow at the edge of a large puddle of standing water as a Western Yellow Wagtail bobbed along looking for breakfast.  Above it, a European Greenfinch greeted the morning with enthusiasm from the branches of a sapling.

Walking towards the pond, we passed a field of ploughed earth that looked like it was covered in burnt vegetation. A hint of movement caught our eye, and upon closer inspection, we realized there were dozens of Collared Pratincoles in the earthy furrows, almost perfectly blending in with the brownish soil.  This was a relatively new species for us, and we stopped to admire their elegant brown, cream, light yellow and black plumage, which was complemented by a spot of bright red on their beaks.

Ahead of us, the path was flooded and completely underwater, but we spotted several Glossy Ibis and two Western Cattle Egrets perched atop the partially submerged wooden fence. 

Beyond them stretched the smooth, mirror-like surface of the pond, its waters almost perfectly reflecting the pastel colours of the morning sky.  Along its edges we spotted small groups of Little Ringed Plovers moving through the grasses, pairs of elegant Black-winged Stilts wading through the shallows, and smart-looking Pied Avocets landing amidst the groups. 

A Grey Heron took flight as we neared his hiding place, flying straight into a cloud of Barn Swallows that was doing an aerial ballet above the pond.

Breakfast in El Cuervo de Seville

When we finally pulled ourselves away from the magic of the Mirador de la Mina and made our way back to town, El Cuervo had started to wake up and prepare for the day ahead.  We stopped at an outdoor cafe for our usual breakfast of café con leche and tostada con marmalade, and found ourselves sitting on the sidewalk amongst a group of extremely well-dressed people. We seemed to be the talk of the café, but luckily for us, the consensus seemed to be that since we were from Canada, we were okay. 

Having taken our time, it was late morning when we eventually dropped off our room cards, checked out, and set off for the day.

Return to the Via Augusta

We eventually made our way out of town, making a late start as we only had 10 km to walk today.  We had planned on walking farther, to Las Cabezas de San Juan, but presumably due to the Easter celebrations, there wasn't a single room available there for tonight.  We had toyed with the idea of walking on, taking a bus or taxi to somewhere with a room, and returning the next day, but in the end, we opted to simply take it slow and avoid motorized transport.  

So, making a late start, we followed the arrows through town, eventually joining up with a paved cycling route that led us through a beautifully landscaped and treed urban park. Yesterday, we had noticed the strange (to us) seeming combination of wheat fields and palm tree-lined farm laneways, and today we noticed the odd seeming combination of blooming rose bushes and orange trees.  These trees and plants obviously coexist in perfect harmony, but to someone from Canada, the mix of such species seems quite exotic.

Locusts and Bee-Eaters

Eventually, we turned off the paved cycling lane and followed a small side road past a large factory.  As we started down the gravel drive, we noticed an interesting tree with reddish leaves, springy buds or fruits, and delicate white flowers and stopped to admire it.  At that moment, a garden locust, which looked like the largest grasshopper we've ever seen, landed on Sean's leg. 

It was around the size of a small sparrow!  I was bending over to take a photo when two tough-looking men on a motorbike zipped around the corner.  Their curiosity led them to narrowly miss colliding with us, but they drove off, laughing at the enormous insect and our obvious fascination with it.

We continued down the lane, soon coming to what looked like an old quarry situated beyond an overgrown and grassy field.  To our delight, we spotted two colourful European Bee-eaters perched on the utility line above the fields. 

Sean set off across the dry grass to get a closer view, and we soon realized there was a whole flock of Bee-eaters filling the sky above the field and the quarry!  These colourful birds are bright turquoise underneath, with yellow chins and rich reddish brown backs, and they created joyous splashes of colour as they zipped through the clear blue sky. 

They look very exotic, and are up there with Hoopoes as one of my favourite European birds. A man watched us curiously from the end of his driveway, fussing with his gate, bringing out a wheelbarrow, and then repositioning his car, all the while clearly trying to figure out what we were up to.   In short order, his attitude shifted from curious to interested to understanding.   When he did, he gave me a wave and a huge smile while exclaiming 'Ah, aves!'

Community Gardens and Countryside

We spent far too long watching and photographing the colourful European Bee-eaters before continuing on, and soon found ourselves following a quiet gravel laneway that wove through large garden plots.  Small homes and sheds, some with guard dogs in the yards, lined both sides of the treed and fenced-in road. 

The garden plots looked like they had vegetables of all kinds, fruit trees, berry bushes, and small patches of grape vines, and some had chickens as well, or a few horses, sheep, or goats.  Many of the plots were bordered by tall pines or other conifers, and the roadside itself was lined with colourful wildflowers, which made us feel like we were traversing a rich and diverse landscape.

We wove back and forth through the garden plots for some time, thoroughly enjoying the sunny and warm weather and the absence of noise from industry, traffic, or other human endeavours.  At one point, we came to a bare, newly ploughed plot and were amazed to find five or more different species of birds foraging among the furrows. 

From a distance, they were completely invisible, but once we caught a hint of movement and took a closer look, we spotted birds everywhere, hidden among the clumps and rows of ploughed earth!  Among the highlights was seeing the elegant Collared Pratincoles.

We also savoured quiet moments in nature along the trail, encountering dogs, horses, and donkeys as we walked. We paused to watch industrious ants hauling pieces of grass and leaves back to their colony, and took in stunning skylines stretching across the vast fields that surrounded us.

As we continued on, we heard the sounds of loud rap music drifting across the fields, first quite faintly but steadily increasing in volume as we walked.  We stopped to say hello to a couple of lovely horses who were tethered to separate pegs in the midst of an overgrown field filled with yellow wildflowers that they were happily grazing on. 

They seemed quite used to the music, but to us it felt quite out of place in the otherwise deserted countryside. We soon realized it was emanating from a lone farmhouse where there was evidently a large family gathering in progress for Good Friday.  Multiple generations seemed to be gathered behind the tall concrete and metal sheet walls, presumably all enjoying the rhythmic beat and strong language of the music.

Roadways and Highways 

Eventually, the country lanes came to an end, and we popped out onto a quiet paved road.  We followed the arrows down a series of secondary roads bordered by large estates, some with majestic rows of palms lining their drives, and then we had to dash across an extremely busy highway. 

It took us quite some time, waiting for a break in the traffic that was large enough for us to make an undignified dash safely across.

Semana Santa Processions of Lebrija

When we entered Lebrija, we found a modern town with cobblestone streets lined by neat, white stucco buildings. Arriving at the Plaza del Recreo, our short stage on the Via Augusta came to an end, though we soon discovered that our accommodations were located two kilometres off the Camino.

Redirecting ourselves, we wove through alleys and streets, eventually turning into the old quarter, only to be blocked by a lively parade. As we navigated the narrow lanes, we were swept up in a throng of Semana Santa festivities, the streets alive with colour, music, and the rhythm of the celebrations.

Even as we wove through the narrow streets at the edge of town, we could tell an Easter procession was taking place up ahead.  The tell-tale rhythm of drums filled our ears, and the sidewalks were crowded with very well-dressed couples, families, and children, all heading towards the music at the center of town. 

The farther we got, the fuller the streets and sidewalks became, until it was no longer possible to keep moving forward.  Intrigued, we stopped at a crossroads and waited at the back of the expectant crowd for a huge, elaborate, silver float carrying the Madonna in a long, white, elaborately embroidered gown to be carried past.  

It took quite some time for the procession to pass, as there were many stops.  The first we witnessed was at one of the Stations of the Cross, which was marked by a tile mosaic on the wall of a building, where a prayer was said. 

Next, the men carrying the enormously heavy float were switched out with a new group of float bearers.  The team, who were relieved of duty, stepped into a nearby bakery for free treats and much joking around. 

When the float drew level with us, a stop was made to relight the hundreds of wax candles on the float.  We noticed that these processions leave a trail of wax drops on the cobblestone streets, which becomes quite slippery and makes car tires and rubber shoe soles squeak as people make their way across them.

Through the streets came solemn processions: Christ on the crucifix, followed by the Virgin Mary, carried high on gilded floats.

Incense filled the air, musicians played, and penitents in tall pointed hoods - this time in blue, unlike the red, purple, and white we had already seen - wound their way through the streets. Apparently, different fraternities and towns have different coloured robes, and so far we have seen red, white, black, and now light blue. 

It was clear that most of the town was involved in the festivities, either by being in the procession or watching their friends and relatives, and every inch of pavement was occupied.  One man in the procession paused long enough to hand us a small Virgin Mary prayer card. A very kind gesture that did much to make us feel a part of the Easter celebrations and the community.

Snacks on the Way

Unable to continue through the streets to the hotel we had booked for the night, we stopped at a Frozen Yogurt shop and sat outside on a covered patio, enjoying a cold drink.  The 'square' we were sitting in was full of people at various restaurants, bars, and cafes, and we sat and watched the family groupings for quite a while. 

One thing that started us a little was that everyone simply dropped their empty pop bottles, ice cream containers, wrappers, and napkins on the ground, creating quite a pile of garbage.  We know it will all be swept up within hours by the army of street sweepers that work tirelessly to keep the streets of Spain clean.  Yet it was odd behaviour as there were plenty of empty garbage baskets around the square. 

As Canadians who are trained to put everything in bins after carefully sorting it according to whether it is organic waste, recycling, or garbage, this is one cultural difference that always feels strange to us.

Hotel Check-in 

Eventually, we decided the streets had cleared off enough for us to continue on towards our hotel.  Some of the processions were still going, but we managed to circumnavigate around them.  When we finally reached the Hotel Barrio Nuevo, we found it was at the epicentre of the celebrations.  The restaurant in front of it was a solid mass of people - every table taken and a wall of spectators pressed close, all eating from counters temporarily set up around the square. The square had food trucks, live music, and possibly some other entertainments - it was far too full to see everything.  How were we ever going to get through that crowd to check in?

Luckily, Sean realized that the main entrance to the hotel wasn't actually through the restaurant at the front, but rather through a small door off a side street.  We wedged our way up the alley and into a small desk, which, unfortunately, wasn't occupied. 

Luckily, an extremely busy man, who was currently working as a waiter in the overflowing bar, caught sight of us and said he would be there in a minute. While we waited, a very elegantly dressed young lady came over with her boyfriend and asked us in English if we were walking the Camino, and when we said yes, she asked where we started.  She then told us there would be more processions going on later, and that we should come out and watch.  I was greatly impressed with her English skills, and with her courage in talking to strangers in a second language - I would never have dared do this as a self-conscious teenager!

Once we were checked in, we had showers, did laundry, and then headed back out into the celebrations.  The entire town seemed to be taking part, and it felt good to be immersed in so much positive energy.  A cool breeze replaced the heat of the day, and we sat with beers in hand, breathing in incense and chatting quietly as a second procession made its way through the streets.

We sat outside for a bit at an outdoor cafe, enjoying a couple of cold drinks and then stopped to watch a second procession make its way through the streets. Dinner was simple since everything was closed or required a reservation; as such, we enjoyed a packet of Fettuccini Alfredo from our camping supplies.

As darkness fell, we watched the solemn figures carry Christ through the streets while black curtains fluttered in the wind from the nearby church bell tower.  Seeing the candlelit float in the now darkened streets was really quite magical.  It felt like a privilege to be part of the celebrations in this small town. 

Little did we know what the night had in store.

See you on the Way!